THE TOWN OF RIGA.

On page 1101 we give a view of Riga, one of the fortified towns of Russia, and the capital of the government of Livonia. It is situated upon the river Duna2, about five miles from its mouth, in the gulf of Riga, and three hundred and twelve miles southwest from St. Petersburg.

The harbor, of which a view is given in the picture, is safe and commodious, and vessels unload and load alongside of quays. Riga rises from a sandy plain surrounded by hills, and the suburbs are more extensive than the town itself. The manufactures are woollen and cotton goods, iron ware, canvas, etc. No other Russian port has a greater trade than Riga, if we except St. Petersburg. Albert, Bishop of Livonia, founded the town, and instituted the order of knights sword-bearers in the year 12013, about fifty years after the introduction of Christianity into the country.4 At first it consisted of a colony of Germans, and was the capital of the order which afterwards became united with that of the Teutonic knights, and in the thirteenth century joined the Hanseatic league.

When the Reformation had spread in Livonia, Kettler, who was the last commander of the knights sword-bearers, gave up his dignity and Riga was joined to Poland in 1562. It was taken by Gustavus Adolphus in 1621, and surrendered to Peter the Great in 1710, after much suffering from bombardment and plague. It was besieged, without success, by the allied French and Prussians, in 1812, but the suburbs were destroyed. The defence is commemorated by a granite column.5

The province of Livonia lies in the western part of Russia, and has an area of 18,188 square miles. It includes the islands of Oesel6, Moen78 which lie at the entrance of the Gulf of Riga. The surface of the country is level, or gently undulating. The few hills which exist do not usually exceed one hundred feet in height, but the Mesenberg9 which is the loftiest rises to the altitude of twelve hundred feet.10 Quite a large portion of the land is occupied by forests and marshes. By the seacoast the soil is very sandy; in the interior, sand, clay, loam and moorland are found; yet the country is in many places very fertile. The province contains no less than 1120 lakes, of which the chief one is Lake Peipus, united by a narrow channel with Lake Pskov on the southeast, and by the Great Embach11 with Lake Werzierwe12, which is nearly one hundred miles in extent, in the centre of the province. The Duna, which is the boundary towards Courland, is the principal river, and receives from Livonia the Ervest13 and the Oger14; there are, beside, more than three hundred smaller streams among them the Embach15, Boulder-Aa16, Salis17 and Pernau18. Until the close of May the climate is cold and raw, but is very hot during the three summer months. The attention of the people is mostly given to agriculture. Rye, barley, flax, hops, hemp and linseed, are some of the products of the country. Much of the live stock is poor, and all the good is owned by the nobility. There are many bears, wolves, lynxes and foxes; and seals are taken on the islands and seacoast. Several kinds of fish are also abundant. Potters clay and limestone are obtained. Coarse woollens and cloths are manufactured, and there are many distilleries. The rural population consists of Letts19, Lives or Livonians proper, and Esthonians, and the nobility, clergy and burghers are Germans, Swedes and Russians; beside these there are a few Jews. A large majority of the people are Lutherans.20 The principal towns are Riga, Pernau21, Wenden22, Dorpat23, the seat of a university, and Arensberg24 in the island of Oesel. About the middle of the twelfth century, Bremen merchants first made Livonia known to Europe. The possession of the province was afterwards disputed for a long time by Russians, Poles, and the knights, and at length also by Sweden, to which the treaty of Oliva ceded it in 1660. The treaty of Nystadt made in 1721 annexed it to Russia. The northern part of Livonia formerly constituted a portion of Esthonia, and the southern a part of Lithuania. The population consists of Esthonians, Lithuanians, Russians, Germans, and (along a portion of the coast) Lives, the most ancient inhabitants of the country, and from whom it has derived its name. About eighty-five thousand of the inhabitants reside in the towns, and these, as well as the nobles, clergy, etc., are chiefly of German descent. Until 1825 the Esthonians and Lithuanians were in a state of predial slavery; now, however, they are free. There are only about twelve thousand individuals of the Greek church, and other professions of faith.

Updated: April, 2021


1The cited illustration appears in an earlier, different, British publication, also featured on our web site.
2The river Daugava
3Riga was already a settlement as early as the second century A.D.
4The monk Meinhard of Segeberg, a German missionary, arrived from Gotland in 1184. Christianity had been established in Latvia more than a century earlier: Catholicism in western Latvia, with a church built in 1045 by Danish merchants, but arriving as early as 870 with the Swedes; Orthodox Christianity being brought to central and eastern Latvia by missionaries. Many Latvians had been already baptised prior to Meinhard's arrival.
5A photograph is available in our Carl Schulz atelier “Rīga” album. The figure atop was evacuated to Russia in 1915 and the column itself dismantled in 1938. Our understanding is that owing to the perennial poor state of relations between Russia and Latvia, there are no current plans to co-operate to restore the monument.
6Saaremaa, Estonia
7Muhu, Estonia. "Moen" is anglicized from the German "Mohn" or "Moon."
8One of the major challenges in reading historical accounts of the Baltic states is the preponderance of Germanic names. To date we have not located any centralized database of historical Baltic place names. The U.S. National Geospatial-Intelligence Agency's GeoNames database does contain a considerable number of historical names, but its inventory, while extensive, is incomplete.
9Refering to Gaiziņkalns in present-day Latvia. "There are no mountains properly so called: the highest ground of the whole province is the Mesenberg, near Wenden, which rises to the height of 1200 feet." in: Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge. The Penny Cyclopaedia of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge: Limonia - Massachusetts, Knight, 1839. LINK
10Modern measurements designate the tallest peak in historical Livonia as Estonia's Suur Munamägi at 318 meters (1,043 feet) versus Latvia's Gaiziņkalns at 312 meters (1,022 feet). As for the discrepancy in feet, while the meter has not changed in length since its definition, only how it's measured, the "foot" has had a wide and rich variation in actual lengths, numbering in the hundreds. Taking this into account, a "foot" (pēda in Latvian) in Rīga measured 274.1 millimeters, making Gaiziņkalns close to 1,140 "feet" high in local measurement, but still short of 1,200.
11The Väike Emajõgi river, Estonia
12Lake Võrtsjärv, Estonia
13This is a transcription error. Again, in the "Penny Cyclopaedia": "It receives on the right side the Ewest and the Oger, and on the left the Bulleraa, which runs from Courland along the Bay of Riga and falls into the Dvina near its mouth." We have identified the Ewest as the Aiviekste river in Latvia.
14"Oger" was German for Ogre.
15Emajõgi river, Estonia
16The Buļļupe river, a branch of Lielupe river which empties into the Daugava. Latvia.
17The Salaca river, exiting into the Gulf of Rīga in northern Latvia at Salacgrīva.
18Pärnu jõgi, Estonia, draining into the Gulf of Rīga.
19Latvians
20Regardless of the arrival of Catholicism primarily via the Germans in the late 12th and early 13th centuries, Lutheranism is the heritage of Livonia's time under the Swedish empire, while Courland, Latgale, and today's Lithuania took the path of Catholicism when the Lithuanians adopted Catholicism in the royal union at the end of the 14th century between Poland's Queen Jadwiga and Lithuania's Grand Duke Jogaila, baptized as Władysław and taking on the title Władysław II Jagiełło.
21Pärnu, Estonia
22Cēsis, Latvia
23Tartu, Estonia
24Kuressaare, Estonia
Pages 109-110, “Ballou's Monthly Magazine, Volume XXXV From January to June 1872, Number 2.—February, Boston: Thomes & Talbot, Publishers, No. 63 Congress Street. Our annotated presentation qualifies as part of a protected collection and a protected derivative work under Latvian Copyright Law § 5. ¶ 1. © 2024
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