Weaving pattern for the red-and-white Lielvārde belt, divided and shown in sections

Archeological digs have unearthed Latvian signs in use at least as far back as 1,000 BCE. While the signs have been preserved in physical artifacts, their significance was handed down only by mouth, generation after generation. Their names, according to their function and shape, such as krustaiņi (cross), galdaiņi (table), lapaiņi (leaf), spieķaini (spike), cilpaiņi (loops),... remained unchanged into the early 20th century. It was actually only in the 1920's and 30's that the associations were made by which Latvians know signs today.

Latvian sashes, belts, neckties in particular abound with Latvian signs. One traditionally wore a woven belt throughout their life, whether as part of their daily wear or on holidays and special occasions as part of their local folk costume. Latvians even use short versions as bookmarks, and ones woven with first names are a common gift. (Instead of vanity "license plates" featuring their name for their bicycle, Latvian children receive and often collect vanity bookmarks!)

Standing out among all the ethnographic examples of sashes and belts featuring Latvian signs is the woven Lielvārde belt (Lielvārdes josta, "belt of Lielvārda"), a component of the traditional folk costume of the town of Lielvārde and surrounding district, for which it is named. There is no single primary variant as is often assumed. In fact, there are about a hundred different versions, all original in their own right. The most ancient of Latvian signs and embellishments find their expression in the Lielvārde belt, divided into segments, separated by design intermissions, featuring repeating motifs and signs arranged pointing in both the same and opposite directions.1

It is not surprising at all, then, that the Lielvārde belt is among the most venerated of woven Latvian folk artifacts. Not only is its pattern complex and intricate, but regardless of variation it also constitutes a veritable who's who of Latvian signs. Even an expert weaver needs close to three weeks or more to create a single belt.

Part of a woman’s folk dress, the Lielvārde belt has an extremely complicated woven geometric pattern that changes up to 22 times in its approximately 3 metres of length. [Visually] striking, and linked to the signs and graphic symbols of other ancient civilisations as far away as Asia, it was possibly used as a ritual protection or story telling device. Many scholars believe that some ancient coded information might lurk within it, capturing the imagination of modern-day designers, artists and craftsmen.

The Lielvārde belt is part of the [Latvian] national cultural canon and as a design element it even appears in [Latvian] passports.2

Diagram of a full belt, woven in 1988 by Arveds Paegle (1908–1989), with Latvian signs identified. You will recognize many of the names and signs from above. Use the viewer magnifier to zoom in to read.

From our Anna Dārziņa collection, the women's Lielvārde folk costume, with belt.

Restored Anna Dārziņa postcard, Lielvārde costume, ca. 1949

Read on to find out about technical aspects and design considerations in js/index.html in weaving.


1Largely excerpted and translated from The Lielvārde Belt and subordinate content, retrieved April 4, 2021
2latvia.eu/sites/default/files/media/centenary/latvia_100_snapshot_stories_web.pdf retrieved April 4, 2021
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