Latvia, a country of treasures

Bauska's Castle Ruins

Peters' first introduction to Bauska was not its history but its beer. A story too long to recount in its entirety, but safe to say that after many years of beer abstinence after an unfortunate encounter with cheap beer in his teenage years, his friend Doug had introduced him to "real" beer (Doug finished beer judging school)—truly a revelation. And thus began the quest for the best Latvian beer. And Bauska's was among the best. Rich, flavorful, not all the bottles the same color glass or, in the early days, labels pasted on quite straight. And, as it turned out, there was more to Bauska.

Updating this page nearly twenty years later, I still remember driving through town thinking to myself that at home, in the U.S., every town has a "Main Street", but in Latvia, it's "Freedom Street."

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"Bauska's castle ruins date back to the 15th century. The first thing you notice as you approach is this rather large, fat, mortar canon, at least half a meter in diameter. It must have been quite fearsome in its day! Very little could have stood up against its withering attack."

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Well, that certainly sounded good when I first wrote it. However, a long time resident of Bauska informed me these were big flower pots which vandals kept toppling; finally the city fathers left them as is and cemented them in place. I'd still like to think they were mortars before being flower pots!

"Bauska's castle ruins date back to the 15th century. The first thing you notice as you approach is this rather large, fat, mortar canon, at least half a meter in diameter. It must have been quite fearsome in its day! Very little could have stood up against its withering attack."

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Well, that certainly sounded good when I first wrote it. However, a long time resident of Bauska informed me these were big flower pots which vandals kept toppling; finally the city fathers left them as is and cemented them in place. I'd still like to think they were mortars before being flower pots!

Bauska
Looks like a mortar outside, guarding the castle, but really just a toppled flower pot!

To the left is the Musa River, one half of the pair of rivers, the other being the Memele, that eventually form the Lielupe (Big River). It's quite a scenic view down the river valley.

To the left is the Musa River, one half of the pair of rivers, the other being the Memele, that eventually form the Lielupe (Big River). It's quite a scenic view down the river valley.

Bauska
A view from the castle along the Musa river

Looking up, the castle tower is still intact. A Latvian flag flies on top. I heard of a story that the flag would even make its appearance here in Soviet times, but that's hearsay at best.

Looking up, the castle tower is still intact. A Latvian flag flies on top. I heard of a story that the flag would even make its appearance here in Soviet times, but that's hearsay at best.

Bauska
The Latvian flag flies atop the castle

If you follow along the wall and around the corner, you come to the entrance and go inside the castle's spacious interior. It's a formidable fortress against any foe. I can see it easily holding all of the surrounding's inhabitants in times of an attack. Situated on the fork of the Lielupe into the Musa and Memele, the castle controlled major trade routes into Lithuania and Poland. That's my (Peters') mom in the picture!

If you follow along the wall and around the corner, you come to the entrance and go inside the castle's spacious interior. It's a formidable fortress against any foe. I can see it easily holding all of the surrounding's inhabitants in times of an attack. Situated on the fork of the Lielupe into the Musa and Memele, the castle controlled major trade routes into Lithuania and Poland. That's my (Peters') mom in the picture!

Bauska
Peters' mom inside the castle courtyard

Climbing to the very top of the tower, we can appreciate the fort's strategic placement. It's actually built on top of a bluff right on the river's edge. As a result, it has a truly commanding position overlooking the river. Any approach by water can be seen miles away.

Climbing to the very top of the tower, we can appreciate the fort's strategic placement. It's actually built on top of a bluff right on the river's edge. As a result, it has a truly commanding position overlooking the river. Any approach by water can be seen miles away.

Bauska
A view from the top of the castle

Looking down inside the tower, there are several canonballs arranged neatly all the way at the base. You can see them in the upper right corner. Do you get the same feeling of vertigo I did? It's a long way down!

Looking down inside the tower, there are several canonballs arranged neatly all the way at the base. You can see them in the upper right corner. Do you get the same feeling of vertigo I did? It's a long way down!

Bauska
Looking down to the base of the castle tower

Of course, all that climbing sure does work up an appetite! We take a break for the typical/traditional tailgate picnic before heading further. Coffee, bread, cheese, all sorts of cold sausage, pickles and cucumbers… it's too bad our sedentary modern lifestyle can't burn off this kind of diet! There's nothing better!

Of course, all that climbing sure does work up an appetite! We take a break for the typical/traditional tailgate picnic before heading further. Coffee, bread, cheese, all sorts of cold sausage, pickles and cucumbers… it's too bad our sedentary modern lifestyle can't burn off this kind of diet! There's nothing better!

Bauska
We stop for a tailgate picnic

Not to mention working up a thirst! Perhaps it's not just chance that Bauska is well known for something else as well. Bauskas Alus Daritava (Beer Brewery) is one of the oldest and best. Definitely not high tech! The labels might not be on quite straight. The colors of the glass bottles might not all match. But their dark ale is a wonderful brew with few rivals, handily beating the modernized (by a large Scandanavian interest) and omni-present (at least in Riga) Aldaris.

Not to mention working up a thirst! Perhaps it's not just chance that Bauska is well known for something else as well. Bauskas Alus Daritava (Beer Brewery) is one of the oldest and best. Definitely not high tech! The labels might not be on quite straight. The colors of the glass bottles might not all match. But their dark ale is a wonderful brew with few rivals, handily beating the modernized (by a large Scandanavian interest) and omni-present (at least in Riga) Aldaris.

Bauska
Bauskas Tumsais (Dark), you won't be disappointed

I'm looking forward to passing through town for another visit.
O.K., I admit it, for another six-pack as well!