WOMEN'S NATIONAL COSTUME OF THE AUGSHZEME DISTRICT

The Augshzeme (Highland) is the eastern part of Zemgale, wedged between the Daugava and the Lithuanian S. S. R. The national costume of this district bears great resemblance to that of the Krustpils district.

The most decorative article of the woman's costume was the «sagsha» (shawl). It was bordered at the sides with three rows of embroidery, the central one a little broader than the others, and each edged with smaller ornaments. The embroidery was done in blue, green, red, and yellow wool. The sagsha covered both shoulders and was fastened in front with a «burbulsakta» («bubble-brooch»).

The blouse was made of white linen with a turn-down collar, inset yoke, and cuffed sleeves. Collar and cuffs were embroidered with red «sun» ornaments. The yoke was loosely seam-stitched to the rest of the blouse and a red-and-white pattern was worked into the joining threads. The edge of the yoke was embroidered in red.

In the western part of this district, blouses with a stand-up collar and broad loose sleeves were common. Collar and sleeve edges were embroidered in coloured wool. A small round silver brooch fastened it at the neck.

Skirts varied. Some were striped, others chequered, others had interwoven patterns. The summer skirt was often made of white linen. The one shown here was characteristic. A coloured sash was tied round the waist.

A green or violet, rarely black homespun jacket was worn on top of the blouse. It was tight-fitting to the waist, with deep folds at the back from the waist downwards. The stand-up collar covered only the back of the neck. The edges of collar, neckline and sleeves were finely dented and left unhemmed.

Young girls wore red cloth coronets, 3—5 cm tall, and spangled with coloured glass beads and little tubes.

Married women covered their heads with a towel-like white linen kerchief with interwoven red patterns along the edges.

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