Our Latvia album

All our trip photos except our “Alberta iela” and “Roots, 1994” photo features.

Our Latvia album, p. 1

Click a thumbnail to view in gallery. Click link Headings where available to jump to the associated content page, navigate gallery pages at bottom, 111 total images this page.

Alberta iela 13Albert Street 13

Rīga's Alberta iela, Nr. 13

Riga's Alberta iela, Nr. 13

Rīga's Alberta iela, Nr. 13

Aglona

With encroaching trees and Soviet-era shanties razed, the basilica's two towers now stand alone.

Aglona Church
Exterior

Their white unadorned exterior belies what awaits inside.

Aglona Church
Exterior

A wider view of the basilica complex, perspective corrected

Aglonas baznica, exterior view perspective corrected

A view toward the church through the main gate

Aglona church, a view toward the church through the main gate

The restoration of the church's sumptuous interior was virtually complete. Only one painting still awaited its final facelift.

Aglona Church
Altar

The magnificent organ dominates the rear of the church.

Aglona Church
Pipe organ

The organist was practicing as we entered, creating an air of reverence. An air of serenity pervades this place.

Aglona Church
Pipe organ

The interior has regained its former grandeur. I browsed through one of the hymnals in the pews. It was in old Latgalian, seeming as different from modern Latvian as Beowulf is from the New York Times.

Aglona Church
Altar

The centerpiece is the icon above the altar. Aglona is not a large church, but that only seems to concentrate, not diminish, its effect. Nothing is so far away as to not be immediately noticed.

Aglona Church
Altar detail

The icon is symbolic of the return of religion and demise of communistic atheism. Its restoration is but one in the renewal of Latvia's cultural treasures.More, its survival is only one of many such stories.

Aglona Church
The altar centerpiece

Here you get an excellent view of the paintings throughout the church

Aglona church, interior view with paintings

Aglona Church
View toward the organ

The Pope visited Aglona in 1993. Over a quarter of a million faithful came to pay homage.

Aglona Church
Postcard commemorating Pope John II's visit

Another perfect end to a perfect day, a rainbow leads the way home for us

A rainbow leads our way home from Aglona

Artifacts

Kokle found in Kurzeme, engraved with ancient Latvian runic characters

Brīvdabas muzejsOpen-Air Ethnographic Museum

Brivdabas muzejs, authentic loom

Brīvdabas muzejs, an old house

Brivdabas muzejs, a farmhouse

Brivdabas muzejs, typical farmhouse interior

Brivdabas muzejs, pre-Disney Land people-mover

Brivdabas muzejs, Usma's church altar

Brivdabas muzejs, Usma's church interior

Brivdabas muzejs, Usma's church carving detail

Brivdabas muzejs, Usma's church carving and altar detail

Brivdabas muzejs, Usma's church detail, Christ rising from the dead

Brivdabas muzejs, Usma's church pipe organ, manually powered!

Brivdabas muzejs, formidable woven wood fence

Brīvības piemineklisFreedom Monument

Seeing the Brīvības Piemineklis, Freedom Monument, for the first time

Peters sees the Brīvības Piemineklis, Freedom Monument, for the first time

TĒVZEMEI UN BRĪVĪBAI, for Fatherland and Freedom

TĒVZEMEI UN BRĪVĪBAI, for Fatherland and for Freedom

Fatherland and Freedom
My next stop was at the spiritual center of town. Where old city, Vecriga, meets the new, stands the Freedom Monument. Too often, we see only the traditional picture of its sleek profile against the blue sky, its figure of Milda holding three stars aloft. Lost are the heroic figures struggling for freedom, "TEVZEMEI UN BRIVIBAI" meaning, "For Fatherland and For Freedom."

Fatherland and Freedom
The Freedom Monument

Brīvības Piemineklis (Freedom Monument)
I must have at least two dozen pictures of the Latvian Freedom Monument. As long as it still stood during the Soviet occupation, there was the sense that all was not yet lost, that there was still hope for freedom. And so it came to pass, that the sun sets this winter's night on an independent Latvia.

A changing of the guard is imminent at the Freedom Monument as I pass by. I also take some pictures for my Brīvības Piemineklis photo project for Wikipedia.

Freedom Monument honor guard

For Fatherland and For Freedom, Tēvzemei un Brīvībai, very likely patriot, poet, and author Kārlis Skalbe's most well known three words. You'll usually find this translated as For Fatherland and Freedom, but that doesn't communicate the same feeling as in the Latvian grammar. For us, our version preserves the nobility and solemnity of service to nation and people, and, quite frankly, sounds less like a political slogan—or name of a political party, which it was for a time following restoring independence from the USSR.

For Fatherland and For Freedom, Tēvzemei un Brīvībai

The Strēlnieki, Latvian Riflemen, embody the ideal of freedom, commemorating the sacrifices of Latvian warriors and leaders from ancient times to modern. Here, they return to their homesteads after years in battle to return to their work.

Strēlnieki, Latvian Riflemen

Latvju tauta — dziedātāji, The Latvian people — singers, portray the spirit of Latvian life. Men, women, sons, daughters, parade in traditional costumes, united in song.

Latvju tauta — dziedātāji, The Latvian people — singers

Darbs, Work — features the figures of a farmer, fisherman and craftsman, expressing the virtue of work and tireless dedication. The farmer stands at center holding a scythe, its handle entwined with oak leaves with acorns—symbolizing masculinity and success. Kneeling are a craftsman with his tools, and a wizened fisherman with a net over his shoulder.

Darbs, Work

Tēvijas sargi, Guardians of the Fatherland, are at the ready to defend Latvian honor and rights. An ancient warrior grasping his sword stands at center, flanked by soldiers of an independent Latvia, rifle and grenade in hand.

Tēvijas sargi, Guardians of the Fatherland

Mother — guardian of the family, Māte — ģimenes sargātāja, is the source of the people's moral strength. She holds an oak leaf garland and drooping palm frond in her right hand, and stands between the next generation, kneeling beside her.

Mother — guardian of the family, Māte — ģimenes sargātāja

Spiritual guides, Gaŗa dzīves veidotāji, at center, walking-stick in hand, stands a seeker of knowledge, at his feet, a wizened soothsayer and a scholar seeking knowledge in writings.

Spiritual guides, Gaŗa dzīves veidotāji

1919 Battle on the Iron Bridge, Cīņas uz Dzelzs Tilta 1919. gadā, Latvian heroes push forward across the bullet-ridden bridge, shrapnel and soldiers' caps flying.

1919 Battle on the Iron Bridge, Cīņas uz Dzelzs Tilta 1919. gadā

1905, 1905. gads — the first proletariat revolution, Latvian workers rise up against their enslavers and assault a Cossack with his whip astride his horse.

1905, 1905. gads

The Chain-breakers, Važu rāvēji — in the middle the elder, the younger at both his sides, have grasped the the heavy chains binding them together and strive to break their bonds of subjugation.

Chain-breakers, Važu rāvēji

The Heathen priest, Vaidelotis, has sung his song of longings and deeds, one hand on his kokle↗ (Latvia zither), another on the shoulder of a shepherd boy, kneeling at his feet. Before them lies a horse's skull, a witness to the past. The shepherd holds a weapon, readying for battle.

Heathen priest, Vaidelotis

The Bear Slayer, Lāčplēsis, vanquishes the ruler of the forest—the bear—in battle. He channels the primordial power of Nature to protect his homeland against hostile powers.

Bear Slayer, Lāčplēsis

Latvia, Latvija, wearing a wreath, holding a sword over her shield, protects the fruits of her labor—spikes of wheat in her left hand. She is flanked from behind on either side by a young woman and man raising the flag of their homeland to the sky, swearing to protect it.

Latvia, Latvija

The statue of Freedom, Brīvības tēls, stands heroically atop the monument pillar, holding three stars of Freedom in her uplifted hands, revealing the people's deepest strivings: freedom and the right to build and fulfill their cultural mission. The statue's "Milda" appellation is not original to the monument, and appears to have come from a 1930's cigarette rolling papers brand "Milda," whose packets featured the image of a Latvian folk maiden.

The statue of Freedom, Brīvības tēls, popularly named "Milda"

Brīvības Piemineklis, Freedom Monument
In 1977

Bauska

"Bauska's castle ruins date back to the 15th century. The first thing you notice as you approach is this rather large, fat, mortar canon, at least half a meter in diameter. It must have been quite fearsome in its day! Very little could have stood up against its withering attack."

Well, that certainly sounded good when I first wrote it. However, a long time resident of Bauska informed me these were big flower pots which vandals kept toppling; finally the city fathers left them as is and cemented them in place. I'd still like to think they were mortars before being flower pots!

Bauska
Looks like a mortar outside, guarding the castle, but really just a toppled flower pot!

To the left is the Musa River, one half of the pair of rivers, the other being the Memele, that eventually form the Lielupe (Big River). It's quite a scenic view down the river valley.

Bauska
A view from the castle along the Musa river

Looking up, the castle tower is still intact. A Latvian flag flies on top. I heard of a story that the flag would even make its appearance here in Soviet times, but that's hearsay at best.

Bauska
The Latvian flag flies atop the castle

If you follow along the wall and around the corner, you come to the entrance and go inside the castle's spacious interior. It's a formidable fortress against any foe. I can see it easily holding all of the surrounding's inhabitants in times of an attack. Situated on the fork of the Lielupe into the Musa and Memele, the castle controlled major trade routes into Lithuania and Poland. That's my (Peters') mom in the picture!

Bauska
Peters' mom inside the castle courtyard

Climbing to the very top of the tower, we can appreciate the fort's strategic placement. It's actually built on top of a bluff right on the river's edge. As a result, it has a truly commanding position overlooking the river. Any approach by water can be seen miles away.

Bauska
A view from the top of the castle

Looking down inside the tower, there are several canonballs arranged neatly all the way at the base. You can see them in the upper right corner. Do you get the same feeling of vertigo I did? It's a long way down!

Bauska
Looking down to the base of the castle tower

Of course, all that climbing sure does work up an appetite! We take a break for the typical/traditional tailgate picnic before heading further. Coffee, bread, cheese, all sorts of cold sausage, pickles and cucumbers… it's too bad our sedentary modern lifestyle can't burn off this kind of diet! There's nothing better!

Bauska
We stop for a tailgate picnic

Not to mention working up a thirst! Perhaps it's not just chance that Bauska is well known for something else as well. Bauskas Alus Daritava (Beer Brewery) is one of the oldest and best. Definitely not high tech! The labels might not be on quite straight. The colors of the glass bottles might not all match. But their dark ale is a wonderful brew with few rivals, handily beating the modernized (by a large Scandanavian interest) and omni-present (at least in Riga) Aldaris.

Bauska
Bauskas Tumsais (Dark), you won't be disappointed

Cēsis

Cēsis, castle ruins

Country living

Typical country home

Koknese, wildflowers in the birch woods, another view

Koknese, wildflowers in the birch woods

Koknese, where the birch trees grow tall and straight

Koknese, the house where Silvija's dad grew up, Robezkalni

Koknese, the sign for Robezkalni

Out in Ieriķi

Trees gaze at us, reflected in the pond

Every country house has a sturdy front door

Conversing in the backyard

Every proper country home also has a pirts (sauna)

The pond might be small, but it does have fish

Silvija practices dog training, first step, get their undivided attention

Another view of the pirts by the pond, the watering can was not staged, it just happened to be there

Anda with doggie

Who wants a belly rub?

Neatly manicured

Every Latvian home has at least one hand-thrown pottery shrine

Doggie and Uldis

Green grows everywhere

Another of doggie and Anda

Doggie hug! The best medicine for everything

House and barn

We never met a barn that wasn't photogenic

Another of the barn

Yet another of the barn

Yet another…

The road to Dravnieki
Dravnieki is Peters' mother's cousin's Arturs' birthplace in Vidzeme, and still home to their collective earliest memories.

The road to Dravnieki
Dravnieki is Peters' mother's cousin's Arturs' birthplace in Vidzeme

Hay Bale
A view along the back road from Mordanga to Stende. This picture remains one of Peters' favorites!

Hay Bale
A view along the back road from Mordanga to Stende.

Alsviķi
Peters' mom peeling potatos at Lena's and Arturs'

Alsviķi
A busy bee in Arturs' and Lena's garden.

Alsviķi
A busy bee in Arturs' and Lena's garden

The dream of every Latvian homestead in the countryside is to have its own pond

Ieriķi pond

Ieriķi country home

Ieriķi pond

Kristīne by the pond

Kristīne and Aivars by the pond

Ieriķi pond

Kristīne and Aivars by the pond

Kristīne by the pond

Kristīne by the pond (yet again)

Ieriķi, possibly the most photogenic barn ever

Another of the Ieriķi barn

Anda and doggie

Now that’s a smile!

Kristīne, Uldis, and doggie ready to play

Fetch!

Zaiga, Anda, Kristīne, Aivars—and with that, time to head back

Next ►

Albert Street 13 Aglona Artifacts Open-Air Ethnographic Museum Freedom Monument Bauska Cēsis Country living Cultural life Aunt Erna's centenary Friends and family Jaunmokas Manor Jelgava Jūrmala Cape Kolka Kuldīga Liepāja Lizums Mordanga New York Latvian Choir Our honeymoon Pērle Rainis Cemetery Rīga Brethren Cemetery Rīga's left bank Rīga's Great Cemetery Rīga's Forest Cemetery Rīga Tram Rīga Zoo Rundāle Palace Rīga Sabile Soviet Era Stende Usma Rīga Old Town Velēna

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