Our Latvia album

Our Latvia album, p. 7

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All around townRīga

An axe-wielding sentry waves off potential trespassers at the kiddie swan ride

Just before the TALLINAS iela stop on Miera iela, we turn right down Astrīda Briāna iela to head home.

No. 9, Astrīda Briāna iela, decrepit yet still magnificent.

No. 9 Astrīda Briāna iela in its glory days.

Across the street from No. 9, No. 22 Astrīda Briāna iela, since restored.

Riga, Silvija's namesake

Suburbs, sunset through the white birches in Vecaki

Suburbs, White birches

Suburbs, a Vecaki sunset

along Hanzas iela

Heads in endless rows vie for your vote for the 2001 elections

Brick Gingerbread in Rīga

Facade as still life

Ķīšezers lake, just beyond the Rīga Zoo

Decorative doorway

A doorway of Rīga still awaiting restoration

Houses nested behind houses

Sad and neglected next to freshly restored

Gingerbread houses also come in brick

Wooden Rīga is an architectural treasure, even dilapidated

Rīga overflows with doorways hinting of former glory

Most old apartment buildings have a wide entry to a central court

Sculpture ensemble celebrating the centenary of the Latvian Song Festival

Song Festival emsemble, Gaismas Pils, Palace of Light

Port of Rīga, tariff zone

Another example of wooden Rīga

Fanciful old mansion on Meža prospekts, on the way to the Rīga Zoo

Memorial to the Latvian children who died en route to and in the Soviet Gulag, 1941-1949

Away from the city center, Rīga turns into a picturesque if somewhat dilapidated mishmosh

More of wooden Rīga

Waiting for the train to pass

Wooden Rīga detail

St. Peters' spire rises over Old Rīga

A sad scene along Lejas iela, stucco was traditionally applied over a wooden lattice-work

The National Opera, that it looks like a colorized postcard is unintentional

More worn stucco awaiting renewal

Along Tallinas iela

Rīga's wooden structures have been recognized as a national treasure

Goat walking on the streets of Riga—the urban Green movement has yet to capitalize on this lesson in turning food scraps into milk

Goat walking on the streets of Riga

Stalin's only fully original preserved armored limousine

The Latvian National Art Academy—my father was a graduate

The Art Academy of Latvia

Stained glass window at the Academy of Art, more than half a century after my father tread these hallways as a student

Stained glass window at the Academy of Art

The only item to survive in the building from before the war, the massive lithographic press—and which Peters' father, as a graduate in graphic arts, would have used

The only item to survive in the building from before the war, the massive lithographic press

Bastejkalns
The old city fortifications

Bastejkalns
Better in black & white

Suburbs, just beyond Vecāķi
Peters missed his bus stop and rode into the next town—this is a view along the way back.

Suburbs, just beyond Vecāķi

Canal Park
Autumn leaves were still vibrant with color along the city canal--this was a far milder fall than usual!

Canal Park
Autumn colors along the city canal

Canal Park
Pedestrians scurry along through cool autumn drizzle.

Milda
Milda, atop the Freedom Monument, looks down on the golden autumn leaves

Esplanade
Dodging the raindrops with the Orthodox Cathedral in the background

Canal Park
A view from one of the bridges over the canal.

Canal Park
A couple strolls along, enjoying their quiet time together, thanks to the weather.

Canal Park
These figures dance gracefully and joyously no matter what the weather!

Night Life
Here was a new experience, going out to a night club! Drinking, dancing, and yes, as the brass pole implies, a periodic "exotic" exhibition for the mixed audience, which takes it in stride, barely noticing complete lack of clothing. Speaking of pagan ritual.

Night Life
The modern instantiation of pagan ritual

Tag, You're It!
In a light-hearted moment a mother and daughter frolic through Riga's Kronvalda Park.

Tag, You're It!
A mother and daughter frolic through Riga's Kronvalda Park.

Riga Canal
One of our favorite subjects are the bridges crossing Riga's city canal.

Riga Canal

Riga, Aristida Briana iela

Riga, Palidzibas iela

Riga, Vidzemes market on Matisa iela

Riga, Vidzemes market pots and pans

Riga, Krisjana Barona iela (we think!)

Riga, Vermanes Gardens fountain

Riga, City canal park

Riga, Opera garden fountain

Riga, City canal park

Riga, View of Milda from Bastejkalns

View out the bedroom window says it's cold and gray

Riga, Kamala on Jauniela

Riga, City canal park

Pardaugava sheds

The Freedom Monument across a snowy field

Palidzibas iela

Miera iela

Riga street

Worn facade

Riga Nr.23 K2

Ziedondarzs park

Ziedondarzs park, Aleksandrs Caks statue

Ziedondarzs park

Spargelu iela

Krasotaju iela

Krasotaju iela Nr.19

Artilerijas iela

Grizinkalns park, 1905 monument

Grizinkalns park

Beyond Grizinkalns park, next to the tracks

Ata iela

Pernavas iela

Terezes iela

Riga Caka iela Nr.142

Čaka iela, cathedral

Taking the back way home

Terbatas iela Nr.113

Laboritorijas iela

Terbatas iela

Čaka iela, cathedral

Outside at Vidzemes tirgus

Taste Latvian and buy local products sign

We couldn't decide which of three pictures of a solitary figure strolling along we liked best and settled for all three

The street sign is fresh — most of the old Russian signs are gone. But that's the only bit of restored sheen.

Rīga's center is full of ornate architecture that than thankfully survived WWII. Surviving half a century of Soviet pollution and decay was another challenge.

I start my picture-taking for the day. In the days of film (!) it was worth wasting a shot — I can't imagine stopping after every 36 pictures to reload — to be able to organize rolls in order later

I shed a tear for the city's mazdārziņi (mini-gardens) which had been located diagonally across from our block on the site of the old hippodrome. Now instead of a quiet corner our little street is overrun as workers head to a massive construction site.

One of the many industrial structures in the neighborhood as I head for the river.

LAIFS flooring center, and "warehouse space for rent."

"Paid parking"

From the brickwork, probably a warehouse building from before WWI.

I finally make it to Viestura dārzs, Viesturs' garden. The park has a long history dating back to being established during the Great Northern War. In 1923 it was named for Viestarts, a Zemgalian king at the start of the 13th century.

Viesturdarzs in fall

During the Soviet era, the park was renamed "Song Festival" park, honoring the festival's 100th anniversary in 1973, and the reflecting pool and zig-zag wall with bas relief sculptures installed.

The wall of Latvian composers

The long autumn shadows make the tree-lined promenade all the more dramatic.

More Viestura dārzs autumn leaves

George Washington (!) park adjoining Viestura dārzs

Leaves, leaves, and the gold of autumn everywhere.

"House for Sale, Cheap, 6419137" also "Tires, repairs, for sale..."

Once away from the park it's all rather sad and dreary.

Crossing over the rail lines to the port along the Daugava

Eksportosta, port along Eksporta iela, across the tracks

Difficult to resist a photogenic crane on a photogenic barge. Everything looks better in autumn light.

Eksportosta, taking one last photo of the barge, lingering while off to my left Mafia types in black coats, black Mercedes sedans, and high-heeled mink clad women hanging on theirs arm discuss business

A coal train trundles off into the distance as I cross over back into the Pētersala neighborhood.

Eksporta iela at the corner of Petersalas iela

House at the corner of Katrindambis (facing) and Petersalas iela (off to right)

10 Pētersalas iela. A look at Google Maps 20 years later shows it has been restored to its former tidy glory.

No. 11 Petersalas iela

North along Sermulina iela approaching Piena iela

Piena iela 16 has been patched up along the bottom, since.

Corner of Piena iela and Sermuliņa iela

Sad buildings along Piena iela

More of sad buildings along Piena iela

Even more sad buildings along Piena iela. A look at street photos 20 years later confirms they are all gone.

Some of the dilapidated buildings here look like they might have dated to Piena iela's origins (named in 1846)

Ultimately, the Soviet "era" was not kind to Rīga…

…nor to many of its inhabitants. I catch a quick photo of the destitute as they rummage through dumpsters along Katerinas iela. On that somber note, I head home.

At Pils iela 5 is Rīga's Sāpju Dievmātes baznīca (Our Lady of Sorrows Church). The building number sign is on the corner of the rectory, built in 1765.

Black and white (paws) cat strolling along in Vecrīga

City canal park

Exiting the old town, the Rīga city canal fountain

The dome of the Nativity of Christ Orthodox Cathedral rises above the Esplanade park

Autumn in Esplanade park

The next block over from our apartment, Peters heads to the center of town

A sad sight along Miera iela

The tram zips by in the the same direction we're going

Matīsa or Vidzemes tirgus farmer's market

Matīsa or Vidzemes tirgus farmer's market, approaching the outdoor stalls

Hustle bustle at the Matīsa or Vidzemes tirgus farmer's market

Strolling by the stalls at Vidzemes tirgus

Meats and more inside Vidzemes tirgus

Back outside at Vidzemes tirgus

One of Rīga's wooden buildings still awaiting rebirth

City canal park

The fountain in Esplanade park awaits another sprit

An idyllic autumn day in Esplanade park

City canal park

Heroic figures on Latvia's Brīvības piemineklis, Freedom Monument

City canal park

The camera is level, going up Rīga canal park's Bastejkalns, "bastejs" meaning a guard tower of the fortress that once stood here, and "kalns" meaning a hill

City canal park

Konvent sēta

Museum of the Occupation of Latvia 1940-1991: Soviet Union, Nazi Germany, Soviet Union

Twilight starts to set in at mid-afternoon in winter. I get to the apartment as evening arrives, settle in, and then head back out into the dark to choir rehearsal.

Days are short

I discover a city decked out for the holidays. The sign by the Christmas tree reads "Sveicam rīdziniekus un novēlam krāšnus svētkus! MAXIMA", We offer our greetings to the residents of Rīga and wish all a resplendent holiday! MAXIMA.

Decorated for Christmas

What could be more romantic than a holiday wedding? For me, this spot between the LAIMA clock and Freedom Monument, where Brīvības bulvāris (Freedom Boulevard) crosses the City Canal, lies at the heart of Rīga. It's only after passing by both icons that I feel any visit has officially begun.

A winter wedding

Had it been summer, the pathways would throng with people. But as I cut through the park today, the groundskeeper is the only soul to be seen.

Canal Park, quiet in winter

The park bench overlooking the canal sits empty as the dancing figures—my favorite Rīga public sculpture, park fountains notwithstanding—look forward to spring.

Dancers look forward to spring

Like heading to the beach in winter, there's a quiet serenity that pervades the park in winter.

Winter serenity

Rehearsal done, I take the rest of my Freedom Monument pictures and then go exploring the "new" section of town. When I first came to Latvia, this was "pilsētas ganības"—a small plot of land for ever city-dweller to plant and tend their flower and vegetable patches. And our (eventual) apartment was on a quiet side street. Now, even streets too narrow for cars to pass each other are major thoroughfares as everyone heads to and from the new stadium.

Vegetable plots gone, now a sports stadium

Heading back in the other direction, the park across the way, bounded by Palīdzības and Astrida Briāna ielas, has had a facelift with new swings and pavers. But, for now, in the dead of winter, there's only a stray dog to enjoy the improvements.

Park at the corner of Palīdzības and Astrida Briāna Streets

I'm waiting at my tram stop, heading back into the center of town to wander about to take in the Christmas lights and crisp evening air.

At my tram stop

It's already pretty much dark by the time I make it to the park, across the street from the University of Latvia. That's the National Opera lit up at left.

Twilight turns rapidly to night, National Opera at left

An art installation surrounds the fountain, which is the highlight of the garden in front of the National Opera

National Opera fountain and art installation

"Snowmen" in the park as I turn around to head back home

"Snowmen" in the park

I'm not the only one making my way home along quiet and dark streets

Quiet and dark

Even the darkness can't hide that once you get outside the center, Rīga still has a long way to go until it recovers from half a century of Soviet neglect and dilapidation.

Dawn will restore daylight, but not the neglect still prevalent.