latviski
Our Latvia album, p. 5
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Rīgas PārdaugavaRīga's left bank
Vanšu bridge from the left bank
Vanšu bridge from the left bank
Old Rīga from across a snowy Daugava
Old Rīga from across a snowy Daugava
The Vanšu bridge
The Vanšu bridge
Riga Presidential Palace viewed from the Vanšu bridge
Riga Presidential Palace viewed from the Vanšu bridge
State archives, in Pārdaugava
State archives, in Pārdaugava
Rīga's railway bridge, from across the Daugava
Rīga's railway bridge, from across the Daugava
View of Old Rīga from across the Daugava
View of Old Rīga from across the Daugava
Clearly there used to be something more ornate on the facade where only bricks now show
Clearly there used to be something more ornate on the facade where only bricks now show
The Rīga Railway Museum, noting for another trip; writing this almost 20 years after the fact, I'm going to have a lot of catching up to do: two sets of relatives and trying to get out to take pictures?
The Rīga Railway Museum, noting for another trip; writing this almost 20 years after the fact, I'm going to have a lot of catching up to do: two sets of relatives and trying to get out to take pictures?
There it is, as Peters walks along Uzvaras bulvāris, Victory Boulevard, his first look at a Soviet era abomination
There it is, as Peters walks along Uzvaras bulvāris, Victory Boulevard, his first look at a Soviet era abomination
Getting closer, the massive scale becomes apparent
Getting closer, the massive scale becomes apparent
Park along Uzvaras iela—"uzvara", victory, originally referred to Latvia's war of independence and victory over the Bermontians; repurposed by the Soviets for victory over Nazi Germany
Park along Uzvaras iela—"uzvara", victory, originally referred to Latvia's war of independence and victory over the Bermontians; repurposed by the Soviets for victory over Nazi Germany
Monument to Soviet victory, "Padomju Latvijas un Rīgas atbrīvotājiem no vācu fašistiskajiem iebrucējiem" — To the liberators of Soviet Latvia and Riga from the German fascist invaders
Monument to Soviet victory, "Padomju Latvijas un Rīgas atbrīvotājiem no vācu fašistiskajiem iebrucējiem" — To the liberators of Soviet Latvia and Riga from the German fascist invaders
Flowers laid at the monument to Soviet victory: "To the Liberators of Riga / The Riga City Council Harmony Party Faction" — clearly, "Harmony" is the political code word for Soviet glorification and occupation denial
Flowers laid at the monument to Soviet victory: "To the Liberators of Riga / The Riga City Council Harmony Party Faction" — clearly, "Harmony" is the political code word for Soviet glorification and occupation denial
More of "To the liberators of Soviet Latvia and Riga from the German fascist invaders"
More of "To the liberators of Soviet Latvia and Riga from the German fascist invaders"
Stereotypical Soviet robed, robes flying, outreaching heroic figure—once you've seen one Soviet victory memorial, you've seen them all
Stereotypical Soviet robed, robes flying, outreaching heroic figure—once you've seen one Soviet victory memorial, you've seen them all
Heroic Red Army liberators (returning subjugators)
Heroic Red Army liberators (returning subjugators)
The obelisk towers 79 meters (259 feet) over the plaza and heroic figures; the monument was declared unsafe; agreement to protect war monuments rescinded, and the monument demolished in 2022
The obelisk towers 79 meters (259 feet) over the plaza and heroic figures; the monument was declared unsafe; agreement to protect war monuments rescinded, and the monument demolished in 2022
Peters' last photo on his last (26th!) roll of film this trip, and his last possible photo ever of this contemptible monument to mass deportations and half a century of Soviet subjugation. It's only “liberation” if you set the people free. R.I.P. Rest in Pieces
Peters' last photo on his last (26th!) roll of film this trip, and his last possible photo ever of this contemptible monument to mass deportations and half a century of Soviet subjugation. It's only “liberation” if you set the people free. R.I.P. Rest in Pieces
Rīgas Lielie kapiRīga's Great Cemetery
Vandalized mausoleums of Rīga's notables and well-to-do remain
Vandalized mausoleums of Rīga's notables and well-to-do remain
The Great Cemetery functions mostly a park today
The Great Cemetery functions mostly a park today
Mother Earth's office at the Great Cemetery
Mother Earth's office at the Great Cemetery
At first glance, the Great Cemetery, Lielie kapi, appears a bucolic setting, like any park
At first glance, the Great Cemetery, Lielie kapi, appears a bucolic setting, like any park
More than one surviving mausoleum is adorned with a makeshift door
More than one surviving mausoleum is adorned with a makeshift door
Albrecht von Oprotkovitsch, April 1757 - February 21, 1821, Field Hospital Chief Surgeon, and if we understand correctly, knighted by the tsar
Albrecht von Oprotkovitsch, April 1757 - February 21, 1821, Field Hospital Chief Surgeon, and if we understand correctly, knighted by the tsar
Here rests Carl Reinhold Baron Schilling, died on 19 September 1855, if you look closely, this is the mausoleum at the center of our initial bucolic view
Here rests Carl Reinhold Baron Schilling, died on 19 September 1855, if you look closely, this is the mausoleum at the center of our initial bucolic view
An echo of Rīga's aristocratic past
An echo of Rīga's aristocratic past
In everlasting peace here sleeps Nikolajs Mārtiņš Senbergs, June 3, 1916 - June 12, 1943, his grave still tended to
In everlasting peace here sleeps Nikolajs Mārtiņš Senbergs, June 3, 1916 - June 12, 1943, his grave still tended to
Most mausoleums, like this of Nicolai Pychlau, lie open, looted, and vandalized
Most mausoleums, like this of Nicolai Pychlau, lie open, looted, and vandalized
One can see Nicolai Pychlau's mausoleum must have been among the grandest. Nicolai was the middle son of a textile factory owner. Since 1880, he and his family supported the Rīga society and institute for the blind. Family members continued to support, and lead, the institute until just before the First World War.
One can see Nicolai Pychlau's mausoleum must have been among the grandest. Nicolai was the middle son of a textile factory owner. Since 1880, he and his family supported the Rīga society and institute for the blind. Family members continued to support, and lead, the institute until just before the First World War.
A mausoleum sunken into anonymity
A mausoleum sunken into anonymity
The Vanags family plot. Aleksandrs Vanags was an accomplished architect practicing in the Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) style, his handiwork still stands in Rīga. Vanags was killed by the Bolsheviks in 1919
The Vanags family plot. Aleksandrs Vanags was an accomplished architect practicing in the Art Nouveau (Jugendstil) style, his handiwork still stands in Rīga. Vanags was killed by the Bolsheviks in 1919
Artist Kārlis Jurjāns, 1884-1951
Artist Kārlis Jurjāns, 1884-1951
At a far corner of Lielie kapi, Peters ran across a curious little cemetery
At a far corner of Lielie kapi, Peters ran across a curious little cemetery
A closer look reveals German names, deceased during WWII
A closer look reveals German names, deceased during WWII
Exiting, Peters found the sign at the entrance, the Rīga German Soldiers' Cemetery, 1939-1945
Exiting, Peters found the sign at the entrance, the Rīga German Soldiers' Cemetery, 1939-1945
The German Soldiers' Cemetery entrance, the cemetery is now gone, the remains relocated to an existing German Soldiers' Cemetery in Beberbeķi. That cemetery was established in 2007, anticipated to house some 12,000 remains of soldiers formerly buried in forests, marshes, roadside graves, and other places not appropriate for a final resting place
The German Soldiers' Cemetery entrance, the cemetery is now gone, the remains relocated to an existing German Soldiers' Cemetery in Beberbeķi. That cemetery was established in 2007, anticipated to house some 12,000 remains of soldiers formerly buried in forests, marshes, roadside graves, and other places not appropriate for a final resting place
We close our gallery having strolled through another day, passing by the gravesite of poet Andrejs Pumpurs, author of the Latvian epic poem Lāčplēsis, the Bear Slayer
We close our gallery having strolled through another day, passing by the gravesite of poet Andrejs Pumpurs, author of the Latvian epic poem Lāčplēsis, the Bear Slayer
Rīgas Meža kapiRīga's Forest Cemetery
Crosses
Not far away, in fact you could see them, were crosses re-erected to the memory of those taken away to the Siberian camps, most to their deaths, at the hands of the Soviets. Was it coincidence, or a reminder–a lesson–that Vija's first, and only, memory of her father was her mother, Erna, pointing him out in the railway yard, led away to the trains for the men, even as he tried to join his family. "There's your father." We joined in the annual memorial service. Was it mere chance it happened to be that day? I think not.
Not far away, in fact you could see them, were crosses re-erected to the memory of those taken away to the Siberian camps, most to their deaths, at the hands of the Soviets. Was it coincidence, or a reminder–a lesson–that Vija's first, and only, memory of her father was her mother, Erna, pointing him out in the railway yard, led away to the trains for the men, even as he tried to join his family. "There's your father." We joined in the annual memorial service. Was it mere chance it happened to be that day? I think not.
Crosses erected to the memory of Siberian deportees
Along the 11Rīga Tram
Our home A/S "LAIMA" stop on the #11 tram.
Our home A/S "LAIMA" stop on the #11 tram.
Just across the street from our home tram stop
Just across the street from our home tram stop
Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 line
Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 line
"Laima" stop highlighted.
Ķīšezers at top.
Ķīšezers at top.
"Laima" stop highlighted.
Ķīšezers at top.
Ķīšezers at top.
A 20 minute ride brings us to Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 line
A 20 minute ride brings us to Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 line
Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 line
Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 line
Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 linee
Ķīšezers, at the end of the #11 linee
At the end of the line, EZERMALAS iela, Lakeside street
At the end of the line, EZERMALAS iela, Lakeside street
At the nearby Mežaparks stop…
At the nearby Mežaparks stop…
…it's an overcast and quiet day at the Rīga Zoo
…it's an overcast and quiet day at the Rīga Zoo
Five singers greet arrivals at Mežaparks, where the traditional Song Festival is held every four years
Five singers greet arrivals at Mežaparks, where the traditional Song Festival is held every four years
…and leave the MEŽAPARKS stop behind.
…and leave the MEŽAPARKS stop behind.
Next is VISBIJAS prospekts.
Next is VISBIJAS prospekts.
"DEPORTĀTIEM CEĻĀ UN SVEŠUMĀ MIRUŠAJIEM LATVIJAS BĒRNIEM 1941-1949."
"DEPORTĀTIEM CEĻĀ UN SVEŠUMĀ MIRUŠAJIEM LATVIJAS BĒRNIEM 1941-1949."
"To Latvia's deported children who died on the way to and in foreign lands, 1941-1949 ."
"To Latvia's deported children who died on the way to and in foreign lands, 1941-1949 ."
If you look closely, between the two garage doors there's a boy riding a dolphin, bull-riding rodeo style.
If you look closely, between the two garage doors there's a boy riding a dolphin, bull-riding rodeo style.
One of a number of old mansions along Kokneses prospekts.
One of a number of old mansions along Kokneses prospekts.
The dog looks happy, but the sign says "Ferocious dog."
The dog looks happy, but the sign says "Ferocious dog."
Someday I will need to create "Latvian" columns for something, taking note.
Someday I will need to create "Latvian" columns for something, taking note.
Next stop, HAMBURGAS iela.
Next stop, HAMBURGAS iela.
Precast concrete wall reminiscent of Soviet era military installations. Satellite images show a relatively large tract of land with what appears to be remnants of a building that has been razed.
Precast concrete wall reminiscent of Soviet era military installations. Satellite images show a relatively large tract of land with what appears to be remnants of a building that has been razed.
Across the street, Soviet-era apartment blocs.
Across the street, Soviet-era apartment blocs.
Next stop, M.ĶEMPES iela, Mirdza Ķempe (1907-1976) was a poet, translator, author, best known for her "miniatures" dealing mostly with her childhood.
Next stop, M.ĶEMPES iela, Mirdza Ķempe (1907-1976) was a poet, translator, author, best known for her "miniatures" dealing mostly with her childhood.
The romance of rail travel, on a very small scale.
The romance of rail travel, on a very small scale.
In Latvia, one can dig large holes and simply trust the public to not fall in.
In Latvia, one can dig large holes and simply trust the public to not fall in.
The EU is paying 70% of a 25,262,369 € project to "expand the drinking water provision and water runoff sewer network in Mežaparks, Mārupe, and Vecāķi.
The EU is paying 70% of a 25,262,369 € project to "expand the drinking water provision and water runoff sewer network in Mežaparks, Mārupe, and Vecāķi.
At RUSOVA iela the #11 turns on to Ķīšezera iela; the graffiti, aside from NE-, "not," Rusova street, reads "NO TO REFORM!!!" This could have been related to language reform in 2004, that at least 60% of school classes be taught in Latvian.
At RUSOVA iela the #11 turns on to Ķīšezera iela; the graffiti, aside from NE-, "not," Rusova street, reads "NO TO REFORM!!!" This could have been related to language reform in 2004, that at least 60% of school classes be taught in Latvian.
Nothing much to see until the next stop, as Ķīšezera iela runs into and becomes GAUJAS iela; in the distance is the Čiekurkalns water tower, built in 1915 and still the largest in Rīga.
Nothing much to see until the next stop, as Ķīšezera iela runs into and becomes GAUJAS iela; in the distance is the Čiekurkalns water tower, built in 1915 and still the largest in Rīga.
Still not much to see until the next stop, 2. MEŽĀ KAPI, Forest Cemetery II.
Still not much to see until the next stop, 2. MEŽĀ KAPI, Forest Cemetery II.
"Forest" indeed! The Forest Cemetery was established in 1913 and envisioned to serve the needs of the entire city. It was expanded in the 1930's to include Forest Cemetery II.
"Forest" indeed! The Forest Cemetery was established in 1913 and envisioned to serve the needs of the entire city. It was expanded in the 1930's to include Forest Cemetery II.
Was thinking this might be an attractive way to re-side the back porch in Brooklyn.
Was thinking this might be an attractive way to re-side the back porch in Brooklyn.
More architectural details!
More architectural details!
Across the street from Meža Kapi II is the BRĀĻU KAPI, Brethren Cemetery, the last stop before the tram heads across Brasas tilts (Brasa's bridge) into the main part of town.
Across the street from Meža Kapi II is the BRĀĻU KAPI, Brethren Cemetery, the last stop before the tram heads across Brasas tilts (Brasa's bridge) into the main part of town.
Getting dark as I head across Brasas tilts.
Getting dark as I head across Brasas tilts.
Another public works project.
Another public works project.
More runoff control, this time from Vairoga iela to Gaujas iela, part of the same 25 million € project.
More runoff control, this time from Vairoga iela to Gaujas iela, part of the same 25 million € project.
The commuter rail heading north to Ķīšezers.
The commuter rail heading north to Ķīšezers.
Crossing Brasas tilts, Gaujas (named for the river) iela becomes Miera (peace/serenity) iela.
Crossing Brasas tilts, Gaujas (named for the river) iela becomes Miera (peace/serenity) iela.
I’m back in the main part of Rīga…
I’m back in the main part of Rīga…
…at the first stop past the bridge, BRASAS STACIJA, named for the railroad station under the bridge.
…at the first stop past the bridge, BRASAS STACIJA, named for the railroad station under the bridge.
Along Miera iela.
Along Miera iela.
Along Miera iela, pilaster detail.
Along Miera iela, pilaster detail.
I pass the intersection with Lāču (Bear) iela.
I pass the intersection with Lāču (Bear) iela.
It's getting dark as I pass the KAZARMU iela tram stop.
It's getting dark as I pass the KAZARMU iela tram stop.
Still on Miera iela.
Still on Miera iela.
I pass an old monument sculpting business.
I pass an old monument sculpting business.
The sidewalk narrows as the tram speeds by, to the left is Rīga's Lielie kapi, Great Cemetery.
The sidewalk narrows as the tram speeds by, to the left is Rīga's Lielie kapi, Great Cemetery.
Along Hospitalu iela, where it meets Miera iela.
Along Hospitalu iela, where it meets Miera iela.
Just after Hospitāļu iela crosses Miera iela to become Mēness iela, the ĒVELES iela cross street stop, the stop is at MĒNESS iela in the opposite direction.
Just after Hospitāļu iela crosses Miera iela to become Mēness iela, the ĒVELES iela cross street stop, the stop is at MĒNESS iela in the opposite direction.
I head toward the center of town to continue my tour along the 11 line.
I head toward the center of town to continue my tour along the 11 line.
There's a large stone monument enterprise across the road.
Samples of their fine monument work beckon at the fence.
Samples of their fine monument work beckon at the fence.
To the undiscerning eye, it may look like there is no method to the madness.
To the undiscerning eye, it may look like there is no method to the madness.
More architectural notes for future implementation.
More architectural notes for future implementation.
More architectural notes for future implementation II.
More architectural notes for future implementation II.
More architectural notes for future implementation III.
More architectural notes for future implementation III.
Instead of taking the Brasas bridge, I head down to the tracks and station—a freight train of lumber trundles toward the port
Instead of taking the Brasas bridge, I head down to the tracks and station—a freight train of lumber trundles toward the port
Commuter train at Brasas station
Commuter train at Brasas station
More architectural notes for future implementation IV
More architectural notes for future implementation IV
More architectural notes for future implementation V
More architectural notes for future implementation V
More architectural notes for future implementation VI, from across the tracks
More architectural notes for future implementation VI, from across the tracks
Another architectural note, and an old window as still life
Another architectural note, and an old window as still life
Rejoining Miera iela, we're back at the BRASAS STACIJA stop
Rejoining Miera iela, we're back at the BRASAS STACIJA stop
One of many dilapidated doorways still lining Rīga streets, Miera iela 86
One of many dilapidated doorways still lining Rīga streets, Miera iela 86
One can only imagine what this cute house off of Miera (Tranquility) iela, where Lāču (Bear) iela and Ieroču (Armaments) iela come together, looked like before 50 years of Soviet rot
One can only imagine what this cute house off of Miera (Tranquility) iela, where Lāču (Bear) iela and Ieroču (Armaments) iela come together, looked like before 50 years of Soviet rot
Returning to KAZARMU iela, virtually the same view as before without the tram
Returning to KAZARMU iela, virtually the same view as before without the tram
The 11 runs along Rīga's Great Cemetery, Lielie kapi, much of which the Soviets razed, including carving Senču (Ancestors') iela across its middle
The 11 runs along Rīga's Great Cemetery, Lielie kapi, much of which the Soviets razed, including carving Senču (Ancestors') iela across its middle
"Office" overview at the Great Cemetery (LV)
"Office" overview at the Great Cemetery (LV)
"Office" overview at the Great Cemetery
"Office" overview at the Great Cemetery
Continuing, we pass the MĒNESS iela stop. In the opposite direction, you can see the ĒVELES iela stop. (Mēness = moon, Ēveles = a carpenter's plane's)
Continuing, we pass the MĒNESS iela stop. In the opposite direction, you can see the ĒVELES iela stop. (Mēness = moon, Ēveles = a carpenter's plane's)
The patina of age is still there, but Ēveles iela 14 has returned to brighter days
The patina of age is still there, but Ēveles iela 14 has returned to brighter days
Continuing down Miera iela across the street from the Great Cemetery
Continuing down Miera iela across the street from the Great Cemetery
TALLINAS iela take two, this where, last time, I headed to the right toward home
TALLINAS iela take two, this where, last time, I headed to the right toward home
More architectural notes
More architectural notes
Another entry along Miera iela awaiting its rejuvenation
Another entry along Miera iela awaiting its rejuvenation
On the corner across the street from the A/S "LAIMA" stop heading into the center is a time-capsule building of a different sort. 1930's Bauhaus influenced, perhaps?
On the corner across the street from the A/S "LAIMA" stop heading into the center is a time-capsule building of a different sort. 1930's Bauhaus influenced, perhaps?
According to the archives, the "Roche" building in 1935.
According to the archives, the "Roche" building in 1935.
"Siegersdorfer Baukeramik, Siegersdorf, Deutschland" turns out is the manufacturer of the tile cladding the building.
"Siegersdorfer Baukeramik, Siegersdorf, Deutschland" turns out is the manufacturer of the tile cladding the building.
This is far from the only remnant of a grander time that has been unceremoniously chopped into for whatever reason.
This is far from the only remnant of a grander time that has been unceremoniously chopped into for whatever reason.
A couple of small architectural notes. The wooden buildings of Rīga are a historical legacy that appears destined to fade away.
A couple of small architectural notes. The wooden buildings of Rīga are a historical legacy that appears destined to fade away.
Still along Miera iela
Still along Miera iela
I imagine how this might have looked before WWII and sigh in sadness
I imagine how this might have looked before WWII and sigh in sadness
Another fading architecture still life
Another fading architecture still life
I would guess 1930's, and no, not planning to reproduce these countenances anywhere
I would guess 1930's, and no, not planning to reproduce these countenances anywhere
Miera iela intersects Brīvības (Freedom) iela and turns to become Matīsa iela. There's no obvious "Matīss" for which the street might be named. Curiously, it's translated as матвеевская in Russian, a common surname and also a stop on the Kiev-Moscow train line.
Miera iela intersects Brīvības (Freedom) iela and turns to become Matīsa iela. There's no obvious "Matīss" for which the street might be named. Curiously, it's translated as матвеевская in Russian, a common surname and also a stop on the Kiev-Moscow train line.
The Vidzemes tirgus (primarily a farmers' market), also called the Matīsa tirgus, was established in 1902 and is one of a number of such markets in Rīga.
The Vidzemes tirgus (primarily a farmers' market), also called the Matīsa tirgus, was established in 1902 and is one of a number of such markets in Rīga.
This gothic-like building was originally the home of "Louis Lundmann & Co.", both store and warehouse, erected in 1904, architect Augusts Vite and sculptor Augusts Francs Folcs ("Man with cans"). Next time I'll get a photo of the statue!
This gothic-like building was originally the home of "Louis Lundmann & Co.", both store and warehouse, erected in 1904, architect Augusts Vite and sculptor Augusts Francs Folcs ("Man with cans"). Next time I'll get a photo of the statue!
After two short blocks, the 11 turns right on to Krišjānis Barona iela and the Kr. Barona iela stop. The stop has since been renamed Bērnu Pasaule (Kids' World) for the indoor mall across the street.
After two short blocks, the 11 turns right on to Krišjānis Barona iela and the Kr. Barona iela stop. The stop has since been renamed Bērnu Pasaule (Kids' World) for the indoor mall across the street.
Now walking toward the old town down Krišjānis Barona iela.
Now walking toward the old town down Krišjānis Barona iela.
Just taking note, my mom's favorite honey store, she asked me to pick some up
Just taking note, my mom's favorite honey store, she asked me to pick some up
The 6 and 11 share the road
The 6 and 11 share the road
Down a side street, a hot pink reminder to not park illegally
Down a side street, a hot pink reminder to not park illegally
Next, Ģertrudes iela
Next, Ģertrudes iela
…and another shopping center
…and another shopping center
Next, Dzirnavu iela (Mill street)
Next, Dzirnavu iela (Mill street)
Only one of many grand apartment buildings of Rīga
Only one of many grand apartment buildings of Rīga
One of our favorite bibliophile destinations in Rīga, the "Jānis Roze" bookstore
One of our favorite bibliophile destinations in Rīga, the "Jānis Roze" bookstore
Plaque reads that Krišjānis Barons lived and worked at this address from 1919 to his passing in 1923
Plaque reads that Krišjānis Barons lived and worked at this address from 1919 to his passing in 1923
Krišjānis Barons's 4th floor apartment is now a museum.
Krišjānis Barons's 4th floor apartment is now a museum.
More of Rīgas faded grandeur
More of Rīgas faded grandeur
Across the street is Vermanes dārzs (garden)
Across the street is Vermanes dārzs (garden)
At the next corner/block, the Merķeļa iela stop.
At the next corner/block, the Merķeļa iela stop.
A view down the street to the right, the Rīgas Latviešu biedrība, the Rīga Latvian Society
A view down the street to the right, the Rīgas Latviešu biedrība, the Rīga Latvian Society
Passing over the city canal, the 11 (in 2004!) turns left and terminates on Radio iela at the STACIJAS laukums stop behind the University of Latvia (one of a number of their locations in Rīga)
Passing over the city canal, the 11 (in 2004!) turns left and terminates on Radio iela at the STACIJAS laukums stop behind the University of Latvia (one of a number of their locations in Rīga)
The 11 making the turn
The 11 making the turn
There goes the tram to the last/first stop. A crowd awaits.
There goes the tram to the last/first stop. A crowd awaits.
1936 Rīga mass transit guide
1936 Rīga mass transit guide
The No. 6 tram by twilight
The No. 6 tram by twilight
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